On To South Carolina

We left Skidaway Island to make our three hour trip up to Hilton Head Island.

I was starting to get into the routine of the trip, listening to the engine and just motoring along. That can put you into a little bit of a malaise if you’re not careful.

I was starting to go down slide into that drowsy state when all of a sudden I was startled by a loud screaming right off our starboard side.

I glanced over. It was a boat with a bachelorette party on board, with the young women in bathing suits, screaming and waving at me. They obviously were trying to scare me. It worked, but I really didn’t mind.

I don’t remember when the last time was when a boat full of bikini-clad women was showing their adoration towards me. Of course, that’s probably because that has never happened before.

Libbie was in the salon with her earbuds in doing Pilates, and did not see or hear them. I’m still not sure if she believes me.

I waved back and we continued on, but I was much more alert.

Later on as we progressed along the ICW, we passed them anchored and swimming. Someone recognized us, and the screaming and waving commenced again.

This time I had the presence of mind to salute them with Selkie’s horn. It seemed to make their day.

It sure made my day.

The tides could be really tricky when going through Georgia’s and the Carolina’s low country. The intercoastal waterway weaves in and out of inlets. You never reach the ocean, but you’re very close to it so you’re affected by the tides and the resulting currents.

The tide swings can be up to eight feet, similar to what we experienced when sailing in San Francisco Bay. The resultant currents can be up to three miles an hour or more.

Trying to time our journey between stops was a bit of a trick with currents, both work for us and working against us.

We had to research what the current was going to do, but also be aware of what the tides were in some of the areas where the charts was showing shallow water.

Some days we focused more on the tides than the current because there were area of shallow water. We wanted to make sure we had enough water under the boat to go on.

It makes the journey interesting.

The low country is beautiful and we have enjoyed our passage through it. 

We continued to ahead and arrived at Harbourtown Marina at the south west side of the Hilton Head Island.

We pulled in to our slip by backing in.

Backing in can be a bit of a challenge for Selkie because whoever’s at the helm can’t see backwards.

The person who is handling the lines needs to guide the person driving the boat in. Facing backwards, it can be confusing. Left is Starboard and Right is Port for the deckhand, the reverse of when you’re facing forward.

Libbie has become very proficient in directing me where we need to go with respect to docking.

We successfully pulled backwards into the slip. A lot of people were watching from the shops and cafes at the Harbourtown Marina.

Sadly, there was no applause for our skilled arrival.

I called my high school buddy who lived on Hilton Head. We had not been together since the early 1980s, and he had moved to Hilton Head a few years later. 

He came down to the boat and met us. We had a great reunion. Unfortunately, his wife is tied up taking care of some personal business so we weren’t able to meet her until the next day.

Libbie, in preparation for her big tennis tournament on Kiawah Island, set up a tennis court time for us to play.

We walked over to the tennis court and had a good hour of practice.

I’ve started coaching her to get her ready for her big tennis tournament.

It’s been fun.

I hit the ball where she wants it and she practices the returns and her serves. I volley balls back to her. Then we play a few games to get her warmed up.

The next morning she had some time to attend a clinic at Harbourtown, and she enjoyed it.

Later we rode our bikes around the island and became oriented to Hilton Head’s beautiful landscape. The beach there is impressive with low tide extending out several hundred yards.

That evening we met again with my high school buddy and met his wife.

We had a great time together, it was just like old times for me. He and I had been on the same high school teams in football and wrestling and had a lot of stories to tell.

It was fun to become reacquainted and renew old friendships.

This is what has been one of the best things about the Loop for me: renewing friendships with friends from my distant past.

After dinner, they came back to the boat for a drink and to continue our conversation.

Apparently it was Prom Night for the local teenagers. A lot of high school seniors and juniors walking around decked out in their best. It was fun to watch. There was also a wedding that took place close by Selkie.

We enjoyed the evening and then our friends said goodbye.

The next morning Libbie and I cast off and were pushed by the flood current up past Hilton Head as we made our way to Beaufort, South Carolina.

As usual the trip was uneventful and we reached our anchorage at Beaufort.

We set anchor in some deep water and swift current. Selkie’s anchor stayed put and did not move at all.

However, we felt uncomfortable being at anchor with the swift current and the strong crosswind. So we decided to go to a mooring ball and tie up the next morning.

We launched the dinghy, went to the dinghy dock and walked to the local tennis courts. We had another tennis session.

I’m really starting to enjoy playing tennis again.

We explored Beaufort and enjoyed our time there.

Beaufort was founded in 1711 and is the second-oldest city in South Carolina.

Because of its location on Port Royal Island, it quickly became a hub for shipbuilding, trade, and rice and indigo plantations, fueled by enslaved labor. Its deep natural harbor made it valuable for commerce and military use during colonial times.

During the Civil War, Beaufort fell early to Union forces in 1861 and became a base for operations in the South.

The Union occupation spared the city from destruction and made it a testing ground for the Port Royal Experiment, an early effort to transition freed slaves to a life of self-sufficiency, education, and land ownership.

In the 20th century, Beaufort’s economy shifted toward tourism, military, and preservation. Its historic architecture, waterfront, and culture have drawn interest, while the nearby Marine Corps bases have brought economic stability.

We went back for the boat, relaxed a little bit for the afternoon and then went back into town for a quiet walk around town before sunset.

While there, I stumbled upon a Kilwins Shop.

Kilwins has a special place in my heart…if not my belly.

When I was a child, we used to go to Petoskey, Michigan for my medical checkups.

My grandmother who lived nearby Petoskey would often meet our family there, and take us to the Kilwins Bakery across from the hospital. I would usually pick out an apple fritter, which would explain why my mom always picked out husky sizes for me at JC Pennies.

Kilwins was founded in 1947 by Don and Katy Kilwin in Petoskey, Michigan.

The business gradually shifted focus to handmade chocolates, fudge, and ice cream.

By the early 1970s, Kilwins had dropped baked goods entirely (much to my chagrin, but better for my health) to concentrate on confections and sweets, which were increasingly popular with both locals and tourists.

The company began franchising in 1981, expanding its reach beyond Michigan into resort towns and historic districts across the country. 

It’s pretty common these days to see Kilwins in a resort town across the country.

Whenever I see Kilwins, I’m instantly transported to some very fond memories from my childhood.

We returned to Selke for the evening.

We settled in and then went to bed.

The next day we were heading to an anchorage on the South Edisto River before leaving for our final destination of Bohicket Marina in Seabrook Island.

We are looking forward to stopping for a few days.